Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Vienna -The Magnificent Schonbrurn Palace

The Schonbrunn Palace is a former summer residence of the Habsburgs- the monarchy that ruled Austria and Hungary .One has to understand a bit of history here .The important dynasties that ruled Europe were the Habsburgs ( Austria –Hungarian Empire ), the Hohenzollerns ( GermanEmpire ),the Ottoman ( Turks ) and the Romanovs ( the Russian Empire ).The 4 Empires were dismantled after the First World War ( the Russian Monarchy was overthrown by the Communists during the war ). The result was that these Empires gave way to a number of Independennt nation states .The former empires and the successor states became Republics ( meaning whereby that monarchs were replaced by elected representatives ).Since I was in Vienna ,I will dwell on Austria only .
Sangeeta and Me  with the Schonbrunn Palace in the background 

The Austro –Hungarian Empire was a big Empire but after its dismemberment it was reduced .. Bohemia and Moravia formed the newly created Czechoslovakia, Galicia joined Poland, while Bukovina became a part of Romania. Carniola and Dalmatia joined Yugoslavia. Other territories were annexed by Italy (South Tyrol, Trieste and Istria). Yet the last Emperor, Charles I, used his imperial title until the end of his life. The Kingdom of Hungary, similarly broke apart. Austria was reduced to a small country .
One of the most distinguished monarchs of the Austro Hungarian Empire was Franz Joseph .He ruled Austria Hungary for 68 years and was its monarch when the first world war broke out .
He was married to Elizabeth also known more popularly as Sisi. ,Sisi was obsessed with her weight and figure way before we in India got obsessed with them in the late 20th century! .She only weighed 50 kilos and had a incredible waistline of 16 ! She was also perhaps the best horse rider in the world during her time
Her relations with the Emperor were cold – she was reported to have been involved with the Hungarian Gyula Andrassy after whom is named the main shopping street in Budapest . She was assassinated while on a holiday in Geneva
In 1885 Franz Joseph met Katharina Schratt, a leading actress of the Vienna stage, and she became his friend and confidante. This relationship lasted the rest of his life, and was, to a certain degree, tolerated by Sisi. Franz Joseph built Villa Schratt in Bad Ischl for her, and also provided her with a small palace in Vienna. Though their relationship lasted 34 years, it is said it remained platonic.!!
Their only son and heir to the throne Rudolph, committed suicide and the next in the line –Francis Ferdinand was shot dead by a Serbian in Sarajevo in 1914( its very interesting but very complex to write and explain in a blog .I for one have read books upon books as to how and why the murder was planned .Incidentally along with Francis Ferdinand , his morganatic wife Sophie was also assassinated ) A list of 14 unaccepatable demands were put forth by THE Austrians ( apparently not approved by Franz Joseph) to the Serbs –and the failure to respond dragged the world into the war .10 million people died.The Empire came to a end .
Why am I writing all this ? This is because all the dramas took place from the Schonbrunn Palace in Vienna is a heady mix of romance ,intrigue ,murders and misfortune for those who inhabited it. .Emperor Francis Josesph was born and as per his wish died in the Schonbrunn Palace.It helps if you know who the occupants were –otherwise it is just a beautiful piece of concrete and gardens. 
.Its a 1441 room Palace .Its imposing to say the least .But – I found the Palace at Versailles grander ( Versailles is a few mile outside Paris ).
We purchased tickets to see 20 rooms .Obviously one cant see the whole Palace even in a week !We were awestruck by its opulence –the paintings ,the teawood ,the cutlery ,the chairs ,his personal bed ,the dining table,Sisis dressing table , ,oohh the beautiful ball room- the sytle is Roccoco .( pl google the term ).
Outside the Palace are beautiful gardens and trees . very impressive structure –“The Gloriette”- is perched atop a small hill and has a cafĂ© .At the base of it – a walking distance away – is the Neptune Fountain ( Sea God ), along with his entourage .As you look at it – there is a zoo to the right .There are also Roman Ruins .
It’s a beautiful place to visit .Spend some money and see the rooms( entry to the Palace is free –but to see the rooms they charge you).Many movies have been shot here (including one with the original James Bond ,Sean Connery).Kennedy and Khruschev had a summit meet here in 1961 .It is seeped in history .
.It is the most visited monument in Vienna – but that does not necessarily mean it’s the best .Vienna is full of beautiful buildings .

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