I had been to the Shekhaweti area before .About 10 years back ,I was on a CBSE Inspection of a school in Dundlod .I had stopped over at a Heritage Hotel for tea and had diverted to Nawalgarh to have a look at a exquisite Haveli of the Poddars .But ,it was getting dark –so I had seen it in a hurry .I was convinced that one could not see havelis in a day or in a hurry.I had promised myself to come back to them .It took me 10 years to fulfill the promise to myself .
The Skehawati area is not far form where I stay .Three hrs drive, on a beautiful road, brought me to my first destination – Fatehpur .I drove through its crowded streets and terrible roads and all of a sudden – I was in the middle of a town that seemed to have no other buildings but havelis .What are “HAVELIS” ?.
The Skehawati area is not far form where I stay .Three hrs drive, on a beautiful road, brought me to my first destination – Fatehpur .I drove through its crowded streets and terrible roads and all of a sudden – I was in the middle of a town that seemed to have no other buildings but havelis .What are “HAVELIS” ?.
Briefly and without intellectualizing the word ,Havelis are magnificent mansions ,built by the “Marwari” community ( trading community), between the 18th and 20th century for their families .The region was the centre of trade route that connected the Middle East with China (Silk Route ),and also Delhi with Gujerat .With the opening up of the sea routes ,the importance of the area declined commercially and the merchants migrated to other parts of India – especially Calcutta .Here they made their fortunes and would return to Shekhawati to build glorious Havelis –each seeking to outdo their neighbours .
The highlight of many havelis was, and still is ,- the outstanding murals painted on its walls .Artists were invited from neighbouring towns who painted these exquisite frescoes .Natural colours were used –especially blue ,maroon, yellow ,green, indigo .Sometimes the murals were decorated with GOLD AND SILVER LEAF (look out for “Chandi Sone” photos in my second blog).Many have small mirror work distinctive of Rajasthani textiles .The themes of the murals were on the life of Lord Krishna – particularly those depicting his mischievious pastimes .Later frescoes showed British influences – cars ,trains ,balloons telephones !!, gramphones and even Englishmen in hunting attire !!
There are two categories of havelis – one which have decayed and left to crumple and die. Sadly no one wants to restore them .I am willing to take up a project to do some of them and even buy one .But there are huge problems about their ownership legalities .A lot of them have been occupied by illegal occupants and are now kind of slums .Innumerable number of them .Secondly – there are HAVELIS THAT HAVE BEEN RESTORED AND BUILT INTO HERITAGE HOTELS AND SCHOOLS .They are exquisite .I stayed in one of them .But even in the dying or dead Havelis are innumerable treasures of art and history .
Have a look at some of the HAVELIS .DONT VISIT THEM AS IF YOU ARE OUT FOR APICNIC WITH CHIPS AND MUSIC SYSTEMS IN TOW !! Visit them if you want to revisit history ,to revisit the great art ,if you want to identify with the walking streets of the Birlas ,The Khemkas ,The Dalmias ,Poddars ,Ruias ,Bajajs,the Goenkas – the whos who of Indian business .And stay a night or two in their charming hotels – believe me I found them better than the magnificent Hotel I stayed in Vancouver which overlooked a beautiful bay .Or a hotel on the Bosphorus !!
The highlight of many havelis was, and still is ,- the outstanding murals painted on its walls .Artists were invited from neighbouring towns who painted these exquisite frescoes .Natural colours were used –especially blue ,maroon, yellow ,green, indigo .Sometimes the murals were decorated with GOLD AND SILVER LEAF (look out for “Chandi Sone” photos in my second blog).Many have small mirror work distinctive of Rajasthani textiles .The themes of the murals were on the life of Lord Krishna – particularly those depicting his mischievious pastimes .Later frescoes showed British influences – cars ,trains ,balloons telephones !!, gramphones and even Englishmen in hunting attire !!
There are two categories of havelis – one which have decayed and left to crumple and die. Sadly no one wants to restore them .I am willing to take up a project to do some of them and even buy one .But there are huge problems about their ownership legalities .A lot of them have been occupied by illegal occupants and are now kind of slums .Innumerable number of them .Secondly – there are HAVELIS THAT HAVE BEEN RESTORED AND BUILT INTO HERITAGE HOTELS AND SCHOOLS .They are exquisite .I stayed in one of them .But even in the dying or dead Havelis are innumerable treasures of art and history .
Have a look at some of the HAVELIS .DONT VISIT THEM AS IF YOU ARE OUT FOR APICNIC WITH CHIPS AND MUSIC SYSTEMS IN TOW !! Visit them if you want to revisit history ,to revisit the great art ,if you want to identify with the walking streets of the Birlas ,The Khemkas ,The Dalmias ,Poddars ,Ruias ,Bajajs,the Goenkas – the whos who of Indian business .And stay a night or two in their charming hotels – believe me I found them better than the magnificent Hotel I stayed in Vancouver which overlooked a beautiful bay .Or a hotel on the Bosphorus !!
